Lake Waikeremoana - November 2004
 

Waikaremoana centers vast forests - the land of the Tuhoe - children of the mist.  It is steeped in Maori legends and mystery.  It is situated high up in the unspoilt forest of Urewera National Park.  Approach is still by narrow, winding, unsealed roads.  Journey takes 3 hrs from Rotorua.

Six intrepid trampers embarked on the circumnavigation of Lake Waikaremoana.  Half the group travelled down on the Thursday, meeting the additional three (who went as far as Rotorua on the Thursday evening) at the Waikaremoana Motor Camp early Friday morning.  All six, laced with enthusiasm and anticipation, set off to meet the boat for 9.30am.
 

The skipper volunteered to drop us in close to the Whanganui inlet rather than Hopuruahine, which in essence shortened our proposed trip to Marauiti that day by 1 hour.  One wonders, if sympathetically, as most wore some gray hair!  No matter, we appreciated the gesture and disembarked with great gusto, leaving instructions to be picked up at Onepoto on Sunday at 1pm.

Conditions were warm and humid, and it wasn’t long till we were removing some layers.  The terrain is very much up and down – more up in places.  Occasionally it levels and suddenly you’re walking through flat land with peeps of lake here and hither.  Early afternoon we arrived at Waiharuru, which was indeed a most welcome rest spot even though brief.  This lovely new hut was so inviting, but we were destined to press on to Marauti.  All six souls had arrived and checked in by 5pm.  Time to shed one’s load, take stock and reflect.  From there the lake was quite close. 

The surface like glass, broken only by ducks pursuing under water dives.  We were aware upon arrival at hut that others had already staked their claim for a bed.  What also struck us was that these unknown beings weren’t trampers!!  Round 9pm we were subjected to an extremely noisy return of these aliens, who displayed the worst example of hut invasion one could encounter.  Thankfully, they’d vacated before we rose at 5.30am to another clear day.  By 7am we were on the track.  Long day ahead.  Destination Panekiri.

The track features many diversions - up grassy valleys, bridge crossings, side streams, and gorges of tall trees.  Home and habitat to paradise ducks, which along with herons, shags, shoveller ducks, black teal and mallard make up the bird population of the lake.  One can deviate and walk into the Korokoro Falls.  Allow an extra hour for return excursion.  From here the track climbs continually.  Many fine specimens of rimu provide change from the manuka and fern of lake edge. Light changes dramatically from dappled, bright to dark and gloom.  Drifts of native libertia in flower made a stunning sight; their stark beauty silhouetted by the darkness of the environ.

Finally, we reached Waiapaoa Hut where we lunched, but wasted no time, mindful of the climb ahead.  Definitely all uphill from here.  Very beautiful.  Different trees clothe lower reaches and as you climb higher beech is predominant. The many mosses and lichens make a kaleidoscope of contrast.  Flights of steep steps have been built and an ingenious cantilevered bridge suspended across a bluff.  Longer legs advantageous as the climb is unrelentless over tree roots, rocks, detours round fallen trees.  You think you’re almost there, when you round the corner and see more of the same.  Mist comes and goes thru the trees casting a mystical presence.  Finally at 5.55pm the firs of our party walk into Panekiri, amidst a round of applause.  Had taken 11 hours.  Superb views; mist gathering round the headlands.  Wonderful sunrises and sunsets can be observed from Panekiri.

Next morning we’re away at scheduled time of 7am.  Today was to be down hill all the way - fraid that’s a delusion!  Where once was an aluminum ladder is now a series of wooden staircases taking you over a sheer bluff.  From time to time the track breaks through to the edge of huge rock bluffs on the left side and you stare down 400 meters to the wrinkled surface of the lake, blemished only by white snail wakes of fishing launches.  Upon reaching Pukenui trig station at 1177 meters we were treated to breathtaking views.  Under a cloudless sky we rested on a sandstone shelf and marveled at the panoramic sight and the enormity of the Bluff itself.  The lake is a multitude of inlets, bays, arms and fingers.  Our downward trek continued opening out as we dropped.  Reached the shelter at Onepoto where we lunched then strolled down to meet the boat which took us back to the Motor Camp.

Interestingly kiwi eggs are being found in the locality and taken to Gisborne or Rotorua for incubation then brought back to a predator free reserve and raised to a certain weight, then released back into the forest at Lake Waikaremoana. The bird life was abundant throughout our tramp.  We met many people of all nationalities.  A great adventure accomplished in perfect weather and good company.  Thanks to Claire and Stephen for their consideration to the youthful geriatrics - Colin, Noel, Max and Marlene (scribe).

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